Day 32 - Gardens and Colonial

Botanical Gardens and Cotoca

I have been wanting to go to the Botanical Garden and Cotoca since I arrived.  It was always cancelled by either bad weather or other plans.  Today was gorgeous, sunny, and not too hot, and I had no other plans.  So off I went exploring.

Cotoca is about 20 minutes away if there is no traffic.  That is fairly close, but with traffic, and there is always traffic in Santa Cruz, it takes a bit longer.  I don’t think people take taxis there very often.  They either take the bus or a trufi, a taxi that fills up with as many people as possible. I took a taxi and luckily had an honest guy.  He seemed excited to give me a tour of little nothings, but it is those nothings that begin to make you feel at home.  He also told me to not pay more than 10 Bs. if I decided to go on to Cotoca from the Botanical Garden.  Good advice.

When I went here in July last year it was so wet.  Today it was dry.  Many trees lacked leaves, but that gives me a desire to return in a few months as spring begins.  There was a wedding party taking pictures and teenagers snapping selfies with friends.  Those two things seem to be everywhere in the world nowadays.  But most of the time I could walk through the gardens and listen to birds singing.  There were two beautiful blackbirds with yellow tails.  Not much was blooming other than bougainvillea and some yellow trees.  I’ll be back.

I am back to school in less than two weeks, so I figured today would be the day to go a little further to Cotoca.  And I was too hungry to take the busy drive back to Santa Cruz before getting some food.  So I went to the highway.  Except for trucks, nothing seemed to be on the road, so I was quickly discouraged that I would not find a taxi.  I tell myself not to worry so much and the reason is God always seems to work it out.  Not two minutes on the road and a car sees me in the distance and flashes its lights, a sign it is a taxi asking if I want a ride.  I waved him down and was quickly off to Cotoca – literally less than a two-minute wait.  There were three other passengers in the car, four if you count a baby, and when I gave the driver a 10, he gave me 5 back.

I was hungry, so the first thing I did was look for food.  There was a little restaurant on the corner of the plaza and the chicken smelled good.  I said I’d like some chicken and a coke.  I guess I did not know what the old guy running the restaurant said to me, because the next thing I knew I had a plate with literally half a chicken, another full of rice, and a third of noodles and French fries.  Wow!  The whole time I am eating, knowing I won’t finish half, I was wondering what I would do.  This isn’t the USA where a lot of food is wasted and I didn’t want to carry a doggie bag with me either.  So I decided I would pack it up anyway.  There are always beggars on the street, some in Santa Cruz I have seen sleeping on the sidewalk in the evening.  So I found a lady who held her hand out for a coin; I gave her chicken instead.  She beamed at me.  It felt good especially when her little girl came running over to eat.

The first thing I noticed today in Cotoca is that all the sloths seemed to be running away.  Twice I saw one trying to escape and twice a man picked them up and brought them back to the park in the Plaza.  They let out a little squeal that sounds almost like a laugh when they are picked up.  I was thinking they might be looking for food since the trees were so bare.  One of the men who picked one up told me there are six in the Plaza.  I only counted three.

Cotoca is a town that can be traced back to the late 1700s.  It still retains its colonial charm with the Sanctuary of the Virgen of Cotoca (the Virgin Mary).  There is not much else to see there, except the Plaza.  I decided to go off the main road and look around some side streets.  It felt a lot like the Santa Cruz I knew in the 80s, at least in part.  Even in the 80s Santa Cruz was a large city.  Cotoca now is small.  Step a block away from the Plaza and it is quiet.  Life is simpler and less complicated.  If you see people, they smile at you.  An old man waved at me as I passed.  It is life the way it should be.

Without any problem I found another “group” taxi going back to Santa Cruz.  There was only one other occupant and she got out halfway.  Except for a truck that had turned over on its side, there was nothing noteworthy on my ride home.  I took my first taxi driver's advice and gave him a 10 and got 5 back in change.

Day 29 - A Nice Winter Day

Just a Nice Morning

Got up this morning, Thursday, July 28, knowing I had papers to deliver at the immigration lawyer’s office.  But as I’m getting ready, I noticed I had no hot water again.  It seems every time we get one of those cold winter winds, the pilot on my water heater goes out.  Now I know how it works.  So I just had to wait a bit before a warm shower. So I took a few minutes to eat breakfast, some nice leftovers from yesterday.

I was in and out of the lawyer’s office in only 10 minutes.  Before anything else can be done, we have to wait from the Interpol background check. 

I had another errand I wanted to accomplish.  I’ve been here a month now and wanted to find a barber before school starts.  The other day I went to one around the corner.  At least I thought it was a barber shop.  There were a few men working there, but when I went in they were shocked.  “No, this is for ladies only.”  I had seen a few others near the Plaza.  Not as nice, but effective.  What do you think of my 40 Bs. haircut (that’s about $6)?

Before

After

I was a block from the Plaza, so I had to visit.  Here are some photos of flowers in bloom and a table waiting for a chess game.

There were also lots of pigeons as always.  I’d say a thousand or more any day.  There were also lots of kids chasing the pigeons.  My mom always says I did that when I was little.  Today, I tried to coax a few to eat out of my hand.  Haha – it worked!

It wasn’t long before I realized I was hungry.  It was already noon.  So I went to La Pascana, a nice restaurant on the Plaza.  I was only a little hungry, so I got just a coke and some fried yucca.  Yucca is a root, but not quite a potato.  It is stringier and drier, but I like it better.  Dip it in some hot sauce and yum!

I walked home, wanting to stop at a papeleria.  That means a paper store, but basically is an office supply.  They were already closed for siesta.  Don’t get irritated at that.  It is the culture.  Go home and enjoy the siesta.

Tomorrow I plan on visiting the botanical garden.  Wanna come?

Day 28 - Money

Ok, this is a short one.  I have been asked, “What does the money look like?” So here are some pictures.

100 and 50

20 and 10

5, 2, 1, and .50

Since I have been here the exchange rate has varied from about 6.8 to 6.9 Bs. (Bolivianos) to 1 Dollar.  Today the exchange is 6.93 to $1.  So I have been rounding it to make it easier to understand; basically 7 to 1.  I have freaked out when I saw something in the market for 100 Bs.  But wait a minute, that is only around $13 dollars.  Then it doesn’t seem so bad.  I bought three steaks the other day for 21.80.  Divide by 7 and that is $3.  Not bad for steak.

My friend Sandra tells me to stop thinking in dollars and start thinking in Bolivianos.  I can't do that, since my paycheck is in dollars.

Not sure how the exchange will do over the next months.  When I was last in Bolivia inflation was out of control here.  A dollar got more and more valuable. It is probably why most places want to rent in dollars rather than Bolivianos.  It makes sense.  One hundred dollars might only be worth ninety dollars in six months.

I have started using the ATM next door.  You can almost see it out my window.  Lock the door, take the elevator to the ground floor, go out the front door, and walk 30 seconds to be at my ATM.  Most of the ATMs here will lock behind you.  This one also has the upper half covered in a nice glaze.  No one can see in and see what I type.  And it also has an option for English. 

The maximum I can get is 1000 Bs., a little over $120.  I was also warned that my bank will charge a fortune to use the ATM.  I have checked online and it is only $1.  I'm glad I started banking online with American National so long ago.  Almost everything can be taken care of online.

I will have to start going to the ATM over the month and get money out for my rent.  Then I'll have to turn it into dollars for my landlady by the end of the month.

So that is my little spiel about money.

Day 27 - On Being a Photographer

On Taking Pictures

I love taking pictures.  Easily have I have several thousands of pictures on Facebook and Instagram.  Some of my favorite trips in the last few years have filled up Facebook: Brazil, Nicaragua, California, Lithuania, Barcelona, Germany, and Bolivia.  Plus, there are plenty of my beloved Dallas and zoos all over Texas.

I am not a picture expert; but I do love to take pictures.  The last few years I have learned some things about photography from my friend, Denise, and by studying photography on Instagram.  By the way, Instagram was created for photographers to share their photos, not teens to share selfies. 

So here are some things I have learned or figured out on my own.

One - Don’t focus on a central object.  Always making the focus of the picture in the center of the frame looks boring.  Try it to the side and see what happens.  I read once about dividing the frame into 3 equal parts and putting the subject on one of the two sides makes it more interesting.  If the subject is facing left, put the subject on the right side.  Of course there are times that putting the subject in the center is just fine.

Two - Move around until you get the picture right.  There is a tendency of many to snap a picture and run.  Instead look for a place where it looks good.  That might mean crossing the street, or standing directly under the subject. 

Three - Don’t worry about other people.  In the past, I used to be worried about what people think of me taking a picture.  Now I think, “Who cares?”  Am I going to see these people again?  Probably not.  Am I going to have this awesome picture again in the future?  Maybe not.  So forget about the woman looking at you like you are crazy and get that awesome picture.

Four - Framing the picture is good.  I love big beautiful skyscrapers, but to be honest, pictures of them can be boring.  So why not look for a way to frame the picture with trees or something else?  It makes it more interesting.

Five - Sometimes you have to get very close.  I have taken a lot of pictures of paintings in museums.  I learned that standing back and getting the picture with the frame and wall is boring.  Get closer!  You can see the amazing painting that hangs on the wall of that museum.

Six - Be willing to take a picture anywhere you might be.  You never know the amazing photograph you might have at any moment. 

Seven - The last is take a look around.  Even look at reflections in other buildings.  You might see the perfect picture.

I don’t have a camera at the moment, only a really good phone.  Maybe I can get a good camera for myself at Christmas.

My advice for you is to get out of your house and take a picture.  Well you can stay in your house and take a picture, I guess, but just go take a picture.

Day 26 - The SCCLC

Getting to Know the SCCLC, Part 1

When I visited the SCCLC, Santa Cruz Christian Learning Center, last July I realized the school was double the school I taught in back in the 80s.  This was my first job out of college.  It gave me so many memories and so many friends.  Coming back here is coming back home for me.  Carmen, a former student, said it best when I was talking about returning last July and I was worried about starting over.  She said the difference now is that I have family here.  She is right.  Returning here feels like coming home.

Entrance to the SCCLC

I have been back to the school three times over the last week, because of my work visa and my upcoming classes.  There is so much to do.

Yesterday, I spent some time with Emily, the high school principal.  She is a cool young lady.  Every time I have met her she had a big smile on her face.  I know the reason.  She has Jesus in her heart and it shines through in her face.  We talked about grades, curriculum, and lots of stuff that teachers find interesting, but the rest of the world falls asleep listening to.  It looks like I'll be teaching three classes in the morning.

Handprints of class of '97, 8 years after I left

I got a key to the teacher’s lounge, which also lets me into the office area, and a key to the book room.  Most of the teachers don’t get keys to the book room, but English teachers have so many different books that they use through the year that they need easy access without begging for a key.  And I got an email for school use and a login to the school’s system.  I need into the school system because past teachers have saved a lot of stuff for me to use.

Last week Melissa took me on a tour of the school, something Debbie did last summer and Jeff in March.  The difference with Melissa’s tour is that she was thinking in terms of what I will be teaching.  Melissa and I will share the English classes for grades 7 to 12. 

I am teaching three classes this year and all of them have writing, vocabulary, grammar, and awesome literature.  Ninth grade world literature has selections such as the Bible, The Odyssey, The Joy Luck Club, Romeo and Juliet, Night, The House on Mango Street, and Things fall Apart. Tenth grade composition and speech includes Fahrenheit 451, Lord of the Flies, and The Old Man and the Sea.  Twelfth grade British literature includes Beowulf, The Canterbury Tales, Macbeth, Frankenstein, Heart of Darkness, Sherlock Holmes, and the Screwtape Letters.  Imagine all the good literature I get to read this year!

And I met a new friend at the school.  An adorable little cat with sky blue eyes.  He is going to be my class pet any time he wants.

SCCLC cat - Chilin

Day 25 - More Work Visa!

Work Visa, Part 2 and Meeting New People

Tuesday, July 19, 2016, I stayed home waiting for a little more information about my visa.  I was expecting a call from the director of the school sometime this morning to discuss payment options.  So I didn’t go anywhere.

At 11:00 I got a message that the school is closed, even though I needed to return to the immigration attorney early Wednesday morning.  Some different plans were made.  The director of the school has been very sick all summer, even in the hospital.  Y’all pray for Jeff.  He made the right step and delegated it to another young man that understands the steps to finish the visa.  Later in the day, I met him and his wife and went bowling with them and some kids at the school.

Wednesday, July 20.  I spent six hours running all over Santa Cruz, but it was a day of getting to know new people.  I can’t tell you how blessed I feel, though my feet are kinda tired.

First Chris and Melissa picked me up so we could go to the school together.  They said they loved my reminiscing about old Santa Cruz and they I love the new Santa Cruz.  Some people get a little bit freaked when they first arrive.  There are some who have difficulty adjusting to the differences, so they complain, and some who love the differences.  They could tell I love being here.

At the school, we worked out money issues, plus I needed an invitation letter from the school.  I also had a few minutes to talk to the high school principal and meet some new people. Johnny, a Bolivian man, who I was told is the blood of the school, went with us to the bank.  I discovered he is going to the same church as me and he remembers seeing me there.  He lost his baby daughter in the spring.  A few of you prayed for her because she had a hole in her heart.  He and his wife are happy, while seeking to understand why God only gave her to them for a short time.

At the lawyer’s office, I met a young lady named Tabitha, who serving as a missionary in Bolivia.  Like me, she is getting a three-year visa.  Chris and Melissa left us to take care of a few other papers I need for my visa, while Tabitha, the lawyer’s wife, and I went to Interpol.  We seemed to wait a long time, but I doubt we were there more than 45 minutes, filling out papers, getting height measured, inking our fingers for finger prints, and signing papers.  From there we got some papers notarized across town.

I recognized where we were at the notary office and realized I could walk home from there.  Tabitha lives in the opposite direction, but is a bit newer to the city, so I was going to help her get oriented.  I love the fact that my internal map is working so well now.  We decided to have lunch together.  While eating a good soup and milanesa (almost, but not quite, a chicken-fried steak), we talked about buses and micros, learning new words, eating guinea pig in Peru, and so many more things.  She is about a year and a half in South America, Bolivia, Peru, and Argentina.  Her Spanish is very good too.  I love to see young people like her, Chris, and Melissa taking on the mantle of missions.  There are great young people out there.

After lunch, she went north and I went south.  I wasn’t too far into my journey before I found the beautiful bougainvillea you see here.  A man passed by me and said, “Its name is Trinitaria.”  He commented that few people take the time to notice things like that.  I responded that there is so much beauty here and I want to remember it.  He was walking my direction, so we chatted.  It didn’t take me long to figure out he is a Christian.  Actually he plays guitar for his church.  He has also recently escaped from Venezuela, whose current hardship is unimaginable.  His name is Jersey (like the state, but pronounced yer-zee). 

So while this was initially about my visa, today turned out to be a widened family of believers that I now know in Bolivia.  I was glad to meet Chris, Melissa, Johnny, Tabitha, and Jersey.  Thank you, God.

There is still a lot more to do.  I have no idea how long it will take, but I am so glad the school is helping me get this accomplished.

Day 23 - Boxboys

Some thoughts on going to the local grocery store.

The first thing I must admit is that I am glad these grocery stores exist.  Back in the 80s there were very few really good places to buy food.  Most of my food was bought in the markets (open-air markets) and butcher shops that smelled pretty bad. 

Living off of missionary support, there were months I had enough to pay rent and pay to get to school.  I was left with eating potatoes for most of the month.  Supporting your missionaries with more than prayers is vital.  They need your financial support too.  That is the reason I have decided to live off of my retirement for as long as I can, so you guys can support a missionary.

Today Fidalga, across the street, is a jam-packed little market that has fresh, frozen, boxed, and canned foods.  It is pretty much like our grocery stores though smaller and more crowded.  Because of it, I really don’t see a reason to buy food in Siete Calles or Ramada, the open-air markets near me.  There are a few things more expensive, but most things are not. 

There is one thing about the store that I love; the boys who sack the groceries.  That is mostly because of one boy, Elian.  I had bought a little too much one day, so I was going to leave something behind and come back for it.  This boxboy said he’d carry it out for me.  I said I lived a block away.  He shrugged his shoulder and grabbed all the heaviest bags.  We walked to my apartment, up the elevator, and to my door.  He would have unpacked for me if I had let him.  All the other boys have been that courteous.

I have no idea what to tip them.  I gave him a 10 Bs., but that is about $1.50.  Maybe I should do more.

This gives me faith that there are still people who are being raised right in this world.

Day 21 - A Tour of My Neighborhood

Today is just a photo tour of my neighborhood.  But first let me tell you a little about it.  Thirty years ago this was all single family dwellings, and beautiful ones at that.  Many are still here or have been replaced.  The newest addition to the neighborhood are the gorgeous condominium buildings.  Here are just a few.

The pictures were taken on Saturday, a cold, windy winter day.

That's a cool little "American" restaurant with the car sticking out of it.

I guess you are noticing the cloudy, dreary day that I took these pictures.

So maybe you might want to think of retiring to Bolivia.  Hmmm?

By the way, the cost of living here is about half of the cost of living in Texas.

Day 20 - Bowling

Bowling and Meeting Some Students

This is not the blog I planned to send today, but I had a fun evening and wanted to share it while it is still fresh on my mind.

First of all, I stayed home all day waiting to talk to the director of the school.  He has been very sick, but still taking care of my visa.  That has been making me feel bad.  He doesn’t need the stress.  He decided to give the job to a young man who works at the school.

His wife contacted me after lunch and said her husband would be helping with my visa.  She also said they were going to Cosmic Bowling this evening with several of the kids from the SCCLC, Santa Cruz Christian Learning Center.  She asked if I’d like to come along since there would be some of my future students there.  I said yes.

Cosmic Bowling is just 2 blocks away.  So you can imagine the difficult walk that is.  I know this is kinda weird, but I wondered how far the chicken place was from my house.  It is the same distance as the bowling alley.  The other night, I counted the steps.  From the checkout line to my door, that includes walking down the street, into my building, and elevator, is only 500 steps.  A seriously difficult walk.

So I was walking over to the bowling alley, and I saw a young man in the plaza near my house, that I recognized from his Facebook page.  His name is Chris and he works at the school.  I looked on Facebook before I left so I would recognize them.

Chris and his wife, Melissa, are about the age I was when I was last in Bolivia.  Actually they were born about the time I left Bolivia!  They are starting their second year here and they love it.  You can see it on their faces.

There were 6 kids at the bowling alley: Caleb, Jasmine, Park, Tati, Gabby, and Mateo – I think that was their names.  Three girls and three boys in grades 7 to 11.  I only think two will be in my class this year. 

They were kinda shy getting to know this old man, but after an hour they did talk.  I got some nice insights on the school from their point of view and some of the kids I will be teaching.  And I actually got a strike!