The
Castillo Azul
A
few weeks ago, when I was in Tarija, I saw from my hotel what I thought was a blue
and white stripped church. So one of my
days there, I went searching for it. It
seems it was not a church after all, but a Victorian mansion. Several friends suggested I do some
research. Hmmm? Good idea.
It
seems I am not the only one who has thought it was a church. One of the owners tells the story that
regularly when campesinos (people from the country) walk by that they cross
themselves. On more than one occasion, someone
has knocked on the door to ask when is the weekly mass. From a distance it does look a bit like a
church.
It
was built by the Navajas family around 1910 with materials left over from
another house they built. At the time,
this house was outside of town, though today Tarija surrounds it. It was bought by the Rengel family in the
1960s, who spent a dozen years restoring it to its Victorian glory days, or
more accurately, early Art Nouveau. They
added further living quarters in the back, so no one lives in the house itself
now.
Patricia
Ibáñez, of El Pais, said that the Blue Castle is “imposing, disturbingly
solitary and suitable for a ghost story.”
Objects are found moved from where they were the day before, or lost for
weeks. Sounds are heard in the middle of
the night, like doors opening and closing, or footsteps approaching. People who spend the night there report a
feeling that they are not alone in a room.
Doña
Bertha Reinoso, who lived there many years, recollects the many nights the dogs
went crazy, barking in fear and desperately trying to escape from the
house. A neighbor borrowed their bread
oven, found outside the house, and reported a shower in an unused bathroom turning
on. Sounds of furniture moving, things
breaking, or heavy breathing, occurred often, though always nothing was moved,
nothing broken, and nobody was present. The
stories continue until this day.
But
with a clear blue sky, on a sunny Tarija morning in October, seeing the crisp
blue and white house, that I thought was a church, it is hard to imagine ghosts
and phantoms. Instead I see a beautiful
Victorian mansion gracing this lush valley in the Andes Mountains.
From
elpaisonline.com
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