Friday, May 12, 2017

May 12, 2017 - The Palacio Portales


Palacio Portales

When I started out this afternoon, the weather was a perfect mix of brilliant sunshine and cool breezes.  The sun was hot, but the breeze refreshing.

The man at the Palacio Portales told me that the gardens would open at 3:00.  After lunch, it was 2:00, so I needed to do something for an hour.  I looked on the map for things close and then things distant.  I noticed to the southwest was an arrow that pointed to the Virgen of Urkupiña.  So I hailed a taxi and asked if he could take me to the Virgen and then to the Palacio Portales.


The Virgen was not as close as I expected.  It was 12 kilometers of busy traffic.  Once we arrived in the town of Quillacollo, it was worse.  I had no idea where we were and the driver made a dozen right turns and two dozen left turns.  Within ten minutes I thought I had been taken to the edge of the world.  But he did get me to a quaint little plaza, with an enormous church. 


The town is not that old, little more than 100 years old.  But in the last century it has developed one of the most important festivals in Bolivia.  Both the Virgin Mary and Pachamama (Mother Earth in the Incan religion) are worshipped side by side, blending the two religions as one.  My belief as an evangelical Christian, is to worship the one true God, anything else breaks the first commandment.  I see the need for missionaries, both foreign and domestic.

After getting lost in Quillacollo, we headed back to Cochabamba and the Palacio Portales.

The Palacio Portales was built by Simón Iturri Patiño, one of the five wealthiest men in the world 100 years ago.  In today’s money, he would easily be worth $80 billion, putting him the top 25 wealthiest men of all time.  He made his wealth in tin.  I guess you could say he was the Tin Man.


Bolivia made its mark early in the Spanish colonial years when silver was found in the mountains around Potosí.  By 1900 the silver had played out, but one of the greatest tin mines in the world kept Bolivia in the world’s view.  Having that much money helped Patiño control Bolivian politics for decades, as well as the world tin industry.  Not long after he died, his mines were appropriated by the State.

The Palacio Portales was meant to be his European palace, set in the Andes.  He became ill while visiting Europe, so stayed in Paris and London during the 1920s while the Palacio was being built.  He spared no expense on the palace and grounds, importing most of the materials from Europe.  He returned to South America, but never returned to his palace in Cochabamba.  He died in 1947 in Buenos Aires.


I didn’t get to go inside.  I arrived at 4:00, but the last tour of the palace was at 3:30.  I could wait another two hours, and I was tempted.  But I got to see the gardens.  I have been to beautiful gardens in Italy, the Borghese and d’Este, and I have been to beautiful gardens in Spain, the Alhambra and Aranjuez, but nothing had me prepared for this beautiful little garden.  It just became one of my favorite places on the planet.


Strolling the shady garden made me feel humbled.  I wasn’t humbled at a man so rich that he could build a place like this.  Instead I was humbled at the natural beauty of the garden.  The bougainvilleas were still blooming, but many of the blooms were faded, because winter is approaching.  Beds of daisies and lilies, and other flowers I didn’t recognize, were sprawled around me.  I was humbled by God’s creation.  This could not just happen by chance.  A creator, with a master plan, created a world so beautiful. 

As Jesus said, Solomon, in all his splendor, was not dressed in the beauty of a field of flowers. 

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